My Sewing Info

Determining the right interfacing for a garment can be the deciding factor in it’s appearance.  The facings, collar, neckline and cuffs are stabilized by interfacing.  At one time, only certain fabrics such as organza were used, but now with the advent of fusibles, sew-in interfacings are rare. Interfacings are made in one of five ways: woven, weft, weft insertion, tricot knit or non-woven.  All five may be produced as sew-in or fusible.

Fusible interfacing is the most popular today.  Because of the various construction methods, types of glue and each one’s reaction with various fabrics, selection of the right one can be confusing.  Check the fiber content when deciding.  Usually they are produced from a blend and sometimes a natural fiber like cotton is mixed with a synthetic. The interfacing should be similar to your fabric. Always cut a sample of each, attach them to each other following the manufacturer’s directions, and allow them to cool.

Interfacings are produced the same way as fashion fabrics, so it is important to lay out your interfacing in the same way you would lay out your fabric, matching the grainlines. Fusing large pieces of fabric to interfacing before cutting out your pattern may save time and prevent distortions. The adhesive on the interfacing is activated by a hot iron. Work in small sections, lifting the iron to move it to another section. Do not glide the iron, as this may cause slippage and distortion.

If your interfacing peels, it has not adhered sufficiently. Rippling occurs when the interfacing is too heavy for the fabric. Use a plain piece of damp muslin as a press cloth to create more steam, if needed.  As always, read and follow manufacturer’s directions.

Happy Sewing!